let these guides be just a starting point…follow your senses and try a little bit of everything…be kind, remembering you are but a visitor here

A cacophony of movement, of sights and sounds and smells, all set against an endless blue canvas. Blue ocean, blue skies. A love affair with the color blue (worth a read: Bluets by Maggie Nelson).

One broader sentiment the rest of France can have towards Marseille is that it is dirty, noisy, and hectic. But that’s just a distinctly Western snobbery–read: racism–towards a culture not dominated by white French folks. A hub of trade and immigration from all around the Mediterranean and North Africa for centuries, the city has a rapid pulse and a festive flair. African markets nestle in against classical French pastry shops; Moroccan stews simmer away while Turkish tea brews nearby. Marseille has been made and remade anew countless times, through different rulers and different waves of immigration, and everyone has left their imprint on the truly cosmopolitan city. 

My own time there was sadly cut short due to falling quite ill on my second day. Therefore, I only actually went to about half of these places; the other half are sourced from the list of spots I researched and was dying to go to. Or, places recommended to me by the crew from Le Mercerie, who I caught a ride down to Marseille with from Jura, and who were more than happy to share some of their favorite spots in this stunning food city. 

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Cantoche: Modern, smart Mediterranean fare. Nothing extremely fancy or stuffy here, which is just Marseille likes it–just seasonal, organic veg, seafood, and meat treated right. 

Regain: Another low-key spot, though this one being something of a globally-inspired bistro. Asian influences make brief appearances alongside the typical Mediterranean tastes of Marseille. Apparently, all the hip creatives go here, so you probably should too.

La Mercerie: I’m biased, as this was the restaurant crew I got a ride to Marseille with, but it’s hard to think of a more ideal setting. Tucked away into one corner of a main square near the water, La Mercerie offers paired down plates of pasta, seafood, and more alongside an incredible wine list curated by Laura Vidal, a top tier sommelier. She’s from Canada, and the chef is from Britain, and their powers combined mean a menu that’s steeped in southern french flavor profiles but one that’s not afraid to break free from tradition either.

The rest of the Mercerie empire: Right next door they have a terrific little bakery called Petrin Couchette, which makes giant loaves of a gorgeous sourdough, a few simple cookies, and one of my favorites pastries, the brioche known as Gilbassier. It’s a brioche where most or all of the butter is replaced by olive oil, making it flagrantly floral and wonderfully tender. The restaurant group also features a fun wine bar called Livingston that serves low-intervention wines and what looks like some pretty damn good food.  

La Bonne Mère: Locals swear by this small, cozy pizza place. The owners get flour from Italy, turn it into a dough they bake in a wood-fired oven, offer a small wine list, and a rotating list of some simple and delectable desserts at this tiny, 25-seat establishment. What more could you want?

Chez Yassine: A must. Tunisian food can be found all over the city, and this is one of it’s preeminent outposts in the city. You’ll see bubbling pots and gorgeous, colorful plates and bowls upon entry. You’ll sit down, order one of the stews that contains, perhaps, olives and tomatoes and raisins, or maybe fish and peppers and tomatoes. Hell, maybe you’ll even order the spaghetti. And you’ll stumble back onto the narrow street as I did, much later, a new person.  

Epicerie l'Idéal: The name–ideal grocery store–says it all. If you’re a food-loving person (I forever refuse to use the word “foodie”), you could spend many an afternoon here. There’s candies and condiments and pastas and cheese and charcuterie and more the world over, a beautifully curated selection of the foods the owner loves most. Better yet, they serve simple and stunning food during the afternoons.

Limmat: Swiss-ish restaurant with tables tucked into the outdoor staircase leading up to the restaurant? Say no more. The chef used to work at Epicerie l'Idéal and opened this spot in recent years as something of an ode to her homeland. Hearty Swiss dishes here coexist alongside fresher, lighter Mediterranean fare. 

L’Esplai du Grand Bar des Goudes: Escape the main city for a bit to eat fresh seafood along the ocean shore. Maybe even Bouillabaisse, a specialty from the region, if you catch them on a day they offer it. Read more here: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/05/dining/bouillabaisse-marseille-france.html