Recipe: Russian Rye

This rye bread changed baking for me. A notable departure from airy wheat loaves, this dense 2kg wheel presented a full sensory experience. Hefty and chewy, sweet and sour, packed with flavor: it was, for me, an evocative way to derive the most out of a grain. Because rye is abundant in natural sugars, scalding a portion of the flour in boiling water brings out a palpable natural sweetness. Pair that with a strongly sour two-stage sourdough build, and this bread packs a well-rounded punch. If you’re able to find it, Wren’s Abruzzi Rye (available from Carolina Ground) is my variety of choice for this bread: it has a depth of dried fruit and tobacco flavors which really shine here, whereas spicier and earthier northern ryes I’ve tried, such as Danko, feel a bit flatter on the palate for me in this application.

This recipe is adapted from Stanley Ginsberg’s Scalded Rye Bread recipe; I’ve added some buttermilk for an extra tang and tenderness, and changed around some of the proportions. Though by no means the only form of Russian rye breads, the intensely sour flavors and heft of this bread are hallmarks of the country’s hearty breads, which stand up well to pungent foods like cured fish, borsht, and cultured dairy.

Ingredients:

rye flour : 750g

rye meal: 250g

water: 750g

buttermilk: 125g

salt: 18g

active rye culture: 15g

Makes: 1 large loaf, nearly 2kg, baked in a dutch oven

Day 1: Whisk together 15g of an active rye sourdough culture with 150g of rye flour and 300g warm water. Let sit in a warm place until very active and bubbly, about 6 hours. This is stage one of the sourdough build. For the second stage, add into this active mixture 250g of rye flour and mix until no dry spots remain. The mixture will be stiff, so as to bring out the acid in the fermentation. Let sit in a cool place for 10-12 hours or overnight, until cracked on the surface, visibly expanded, and pungent. Meanwhile, for the scald: pour 450g of boiling water over 250g of rye meal, whisking to combine, and cover and let sit overnight to develop sweetness.

Day 2: combine the stage 2 sour, the scald, 350g of rye flour, 125g of buttermilk, and 18g of salt by hand or in a mixer until just combined. Fold the dough over itself a few times, but know that you’re not looking for much gluten development here: this sort of rye dough will always stay fairly dense and tacky. Let sit for 10-15 minutes just so that the fermentation can begin and the flour can absorb more liquid, and then round into a boule (or at least try: it’s tricky, and if it’s not perfect you can smooth out the dough in the dutch oven) and place in a well-oiled dutch oven. Let proof at a warm temperature for about 3 hours: you should see cracks running the length of the surface, and the dough should have expanded notably. For a decorative bread, use a dough scraper dipped in water to score patterns on the top. Bake at 500 degrees for 20 minutes with the lid on, then remove the lid and lower the heat to 425 and bake for another 30-45 minutes until deeply browned and fragrant. Remove from dutch oven and allow to cool. Wrap in cloth and allow to sit for at least 24 hours, preferably 48, before slicing into.