Appalachian Cornbread

This is perhaps the recipe that I think of most when I think of my time in Appalachia. An all-corn cornbread that every cook makes a little bit differently: most, but not all, refuse to use wheat; most, but not all, wouldn’t think of putting any sugar in. And most, if not all, will tell you the key is a very hot skillet, hot enough to make the batter sizzle as it hits the pan. That’s how you get the crisp edges, and a nice rise.

But ultimately, it’s pretty dang good any way you want to make it. This version is adapted from three of my favorite cornbread recipes: that of Sean Brock in South, Ronni Lundy’s in Vittles, and one that Ashley Knighten of All Day Darling in Asheville taught me. Play around with it! Try adding an extra egg if you want it to hold together more (I find 1.5 is the sweet spot, but I can’t suggest 1.5 eggs in a recipe without doing a face palm). Add a touch of sugar or sorghum or honey if you want a bit more browning. Try different colors of cornmeal. Make it with bacon fat if you’re feeling bold. Make it your own.

Ingredients:

2 cups cornmeal (a mix of coarse and fine is nice)

1 tsp salt

1.5 tsp baking powder

1 3/4 cups buttermilk

1 egg

1 T sugar or sorghum

4 T butter or lard

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Mix all dry ingredients together in a large bowl. When the oven is preheated, add the butter or lard to a 10” cast iron skillet and put into the oven for a few minutes, til the pan is hot and the butter or lard is melted but not browned. While the skillet is in the oven, whisk in the buttermilk, eggs, and, if using, the sugar. Take the skillet out of the oven, pour the melted butter into the batter and whisk it into the batter. Immediately pour the batter into the hot skillet—you want it to sizzle a bit and immediately puff up on the edges. Return the skillet to the oven and bake the cornbread for about 20 minutes, or until it is set in the middle. It’s best warm, but wait for about 10 minutes before cutting into it.